htmlified the docs
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#define _PAGE_ Repair Your LCD
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#include "head.t"
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<pre>
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<p>
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Author: Peter van Hardenberg
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<p>
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My LCD screen broke, I know I'm not alone, so at dwihno's suggestion, I'm
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typing up this information so everyone else can benefit too.
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<p>
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Okay, your LCD is broken, but the 'box still works. Now what?
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<p>
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PART 1: Getting a new screen.
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<p>
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You're going to need a new LCD, but odds are you don't have a clue where
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to get one.
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<pre>
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Part number: G112064-30
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Manufacturer: Shing Yih Technologies, Taiwan
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</pre>
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<p>
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Unless you're buying a few hundred, I don't think Shing Yih is going to
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listen to you. Instead, I recommend you shop at:
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<p>
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http://www.newmp3technology.com/
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<p>
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For me, a replacement LCD was $24USD with shipping. (Archos wants $60
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minimum just to look at it.)
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<p>
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PART 2: Disassembling the Frame
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<p>
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This is written up well on the rockbox site, but you will need a #10 Torx
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bit (check your hardware store) and a small Phillip's head screwdriver to
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take the box apart.
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<p>
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http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble.html
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<p>
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PART 3: Desoldering
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<p>
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There are a total of eight points you will need to desolder. They are
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three on each side of the metal frame holding the electronics, and two at
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the top end. The side points are structural, but the top two (which are on
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@ -43,84 +44,83 @@ going to tell you how to desolder a joint. That is up to you. I found it
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helpful to use a small tool to lift up the joints as I worked, seperating
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the side ones individually and then gradually working out the top ones. I
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certainly hope you are more competant at desoldering than I.
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<p>
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The two electronics boards inside the Archos are connected by a paralell
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connector, much like the one you find on the back of your hard drives,
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though without the cable. This is why even desoldered the boards will
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stick together. Carefully seperate the two boards. They are connected by
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several wires. Don't break them.
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<p>
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NOTE: The two connections at the top (by the microphone) have wires
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embedded in them. This won't make your life any easier.
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<p>
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NOTE: If you remove the tape in the battery compartment while you work,
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make sure you replace it with something afterwards! (A couple strips of
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simple scotch tape worked for me.)
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<p>
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BE CAREFUL not to break the end boards off while you work!
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<p>
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Again, the rockbox site has some handy pictures, though this section is
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for the non-recorder model and is a bit uninformative.
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<p>
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http://rockbox.haxx.se/mods/disassemble2.html
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<p>
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PART 3: The New LCD
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<p>
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Remove the old LCD cable. There are two little clips (one on each side of
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the connector) that can be gently pushed out to free the strip connector.
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When you put the new LCD in, make sure you have the right orientation
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(duh) and also make sure the connection is tight before you clip it back
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down. This part is probably the easiest of the whole affair. Be careful
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with the plastic frame under the LCD, as it seems a bit fragile.
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<p>
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PART 4: Test!
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<p>
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Don't solder it all back together yet. Re-seat the top electronics board
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so the parallel connector is snug. (Watch out for those pins by the
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microphone! Now you can plug the unit into the AC adapter to see if the
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LCD works. You should get a message on the LCD saying "ATA Error" or
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something to that effect. This means the LCD is sitting correctly and you
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can proceed to reassemble. If not, go back to part 3.
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<p>
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PART 5: Resolder
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<p>
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UNPLUG the archos. (Just thought I'd better reiterate.)
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<p>
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Resolder the two top connections (the ones by the mic).
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<p>
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PLUG the archos back in. The hard drive should spin up. Nothing much more
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will happen until you put the batteries in though. (I think, I can't quite
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remember.)
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<p>
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Okay, good. Unplug the Archos again.
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<p>
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IMPORTANT: When you resolder the frame points, make sure you don't leave
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any pointy bits of solder poking into where the batteries run. I did, and
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they scraped the plastic off my batteries, shorted out against the frame,
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melted the inside of one of the bumpers a bit (smoking and smelling
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awfully) and just about scared me to death. This is also why you need to
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put the tape back on if you removed it.
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<p>
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PART 6: Reassemble the Archos!
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<p>
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Put the archos back together, taking care not to bend anything. The rubber
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bumpers are tricky, but I think there are some notes on the rockbox site
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about how to put them on the right way.
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<p>
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Victory at last! You're done! Now go to the rockbox site and update your
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firmware, I bet it's out of date!
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<p>
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CONCLUSION
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<p>
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In the end, this cost me much less than sending it in to someone
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qualified, but was also a hell of a lot scarier. I think I learned a few
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things about my Archos though, and I look forward to trying some of the
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other mods.
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<p>
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I'm sure there are people out there (real pros) who are horrified at what
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I have written. Please, correct any mistakes I have made in this document
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so future 'boxers don't have to go through the hours of stress and strain
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I did.
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</pre>
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#include "foot.t"
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